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My LX200 Modifications

To-Do list:

• Rebuild of the Meade Superwedge
• Make a new Dew Heater to permenently mount to scope (Already started)

Cord Tangle Solution

DO NOT attempt this mod if you are not comfortable opening, or PERMENENTLY altering (Drilling holes) your telescope! I assume NO responsibility for damage that may occur if you choose to attempt this mod!

As mentioned above in my "Micro-Focuser Controller" Mod, I've come up with a solution that plagues MANY fork mount users; the dreaded Cord Tangle!

While looking at the schematics, and internal pictures of the LX200, I figured it would be fairly simple to include a 12-volt power cable THROUGH the inside of the scope to the fork arm. After a bit of inspections on my own LX200, I began my project.

Quite simple. I ran some wire (12 guage power wire) through the center hole where all the other wires enter. You'll notice there is a cord-wrap "Tube" around those wires. You'll have to take one of those tubes, and cut the zip-tie off. Remove the tube. Now from the top of the base, remove the cover plate and you'll see the wires emerging from the base through another tube. Again, cut the zip-tie and carefully slide the tube out. I left the tube on the RIGHT fork arm wires, and just slid the LEFT arm wire out of the tubing. Now carefully feed the 12-guage wire through the bottom of the hole, using the SAME path the wires use. Leave yourself enough wire (8 to 10 inches) in the base so you can terminate at your power plug. Once the wire is fed through, you can then re-install the tube over the wires INCLUDING your new 12-guage wire. Add a new Zip-Tie. From the top of the base, you now need to feed the tube back into the hole, also including all the wires. Again, add a new Zip-Tie.

From here (top of the base), wire feeding becomes simple. I went into the right fork arm, but you can go either direction. Remove the bottom cover plate from the arm. Feed the wire from the top of the base through the hole to the lower fork arm. At this point, this is the position for one option to terminate your power source. If you wish to continue, you would then remove the cover plate on the inside of the fork arms and continue feeding the wire through into the fork arm. From here, you have multiple options for terminating the power wire. I decided to terminate mine on the plastic cover plate on the inside of the fork. My reasoning was that this part, as well as the thin metal base cover are both easily replaceable through Meade if needed.

The next step involves drilling the holes and adding the connectors to your wire. I am using the same power connectors that the front panel of the LX200 uses. These are 5.5mm OD by 2.5mm ID "DC Power" Coaxial connectors. Radio Shack calls them "Size N", but I've found no other electronics source that uses this name system. (Type N connectors are COMPLETELY different than the DC connectors used here.) I have a socket on the bottom slanted part of the base unit...

Please note the position of the hole in the base plate. I placed the hole a 1/2 inch from the top, and a 1/2 inch from the side of the plate. I didn't want to place it closer to the top, as this may interfere with the PCB inside the scope. If I placed it any lower, I would not be able to plug in the power cord when the scope is mounted on the wedge. The position I have it in now works perfectly when uses with a right-angle plug, and leaves plenty of room inside the scope base.

... and another on the inside plastic cover of the right fork-arm.

My Dew Controller has a short (6 to 8 inch) wire with the matching power plug on the end to plug into the fork arm.

My power line from the supply will then has the standard "Cigarette" style plug on one end, and the matching power plug on the end to plug into the front of the base unit.

One change I made since these pictures were taken was with the plug ends on the power cord and controller. Rather than a straight-through plug, I have replaced them with right-angle plugs. The clearance between the fork and OTA is very small. The base-unit, when mounted on the Wedge barely leaves clearance to insert the standard plug. The right-angle plugs eliminates this issue at the base, and leaves just enough clearance for the OTA at the fork.

An additional thought I've had was to split the power wire and terminate at 2 (or more) power plugs on the fork-arm. In doing this, I can use multiple accessories that require 12-volt power, and eliminate their cords as well. My Focuser Controller is one thought. Currently, I'm using a 9-volt battery, but I could easily add the power wire to plug into the fork arm for a 12-volt source, and still remain tangle-free!

Let me REPEAT! DO NOT attempt this mod if you are not comfortable opening, or PERMENENTLY altering (Drilling holes) your telescope! I assume NO responsibility for damage that may occur if you choose to attempt this mod!